Island Time

Fishing Tournament

2012-02-20T09:25:00.004-08:00

While captains hauled their catches from the boats, islanders gathered on the wooden wharf to glimpse the biggest fish to win the annual tournament.

Relatives and neighbors of the fishermen greeted each other in English – occasionally joking in Creole or calling out in Spanish as fish were carefully hauled to the weighing station.

Everyone ogled the Kingfish and Wahoo displayed at the end of the pier.

Tourists stood on tiptoes - their voices penetrating: "I wonder how it works? What kind of fish is that? Do you think this is the last day?" They squinted in the dusk and asked each other those questions in English as if they were the only ones watching. They appeared unaware of all others – staring past the islanders at the fish and the fishermen in the same way they eyed Angelfish while snorkeling. "Do you think they do this annually?"

A small boy made white by sun block separated from his tourist parents; knelt beside a pile of thick slimy fish. "Those are Barracudas." An equally small boy with naturally brown skin said. "I caught this one. Today's the last day; but, next year I'm going to do better."

Basking in Glory

2012-01-25T06:44:00.000-08:00

The first post of the New Year should be about singing the praises of Caye Casa. Instead I'm going to exclaim with great pride about The Phoenix Resort in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Belize which was just named the TripAdvisor's 2012 Number One Hotel in the World.

In the world.

Not just on Ambergris Caye, or in Belize, or in Latin America or in the Caribbean, or this hemisphere – the world – and it's just down the beach from here.

I'm so proud of the owners, the managers, and the staff.

We all can bask in their glory.

post hurricane pre high season break

2011-11-15T09:16:00.000-08:00

Hello,
Many would think I'm crazy to take a vacation from this:

But I get to see this:

I'll be gone for around a month

Road Construction Problems

2011-11-07T09:23:00.000-08:00

Something has caused a slowdown. Maybe it was this broken cement mixer - again in front of Caye Casa. The weather's been fine.

Beat the Clock

2011-11-03T11:58:00.000-07:00

I love the drama of politics – particularly when I'm not running for office.

This week our island has convulsed around a proposed town clock. Our mayor, inspired by an early American style clock in a town square in North Carolina, decided we should have one too.

Without consulting anyone, she decided to put the tower (approximately 10 feet square and 30 feet high) in the middle of the main road near our empty town park - over major water and sewer lines, and blocking access for emergency vehicles. As if that weren't enough, since the town has no money for such things, she sought the financing of a well known local resort. In return for the construction money, the resort plans on installing two electronic billboards promoting that resort's tours, restaurant, and God's word – similar to a number of other electronic billboards they have on the island.

The mayor stopped construction after being surprised by the objections of those of us who run other businesses on the island. A "beat the clock" rally was organized. On the morning of the protest rally, the mayor visited a local talk show and said she didn't care what people think. She is not running for reelection and wants the clock.

The sponsoring resort has been bombarded with negative reviews on trip advisor and was forced to take down its facebook page.

Here are a couple of photographs of the gathering. I'm going to suggest that if the clock is built, it will be set an hour behind schedule – Belize time.

Aftermath

2011-10-27T08:13:00.001-07:00

Hurricane Rina

2011-10-26T07:56:00.000-07:00

Taken this morning in the rain. We pulled the boats in yesterday. Took the sailboat to the back. Hauled in all the plants and chairs. We're prepared but I think we'll only get rain and tropical force winds.

San Pedro Roads

2011-10-18T14:18:00.000-07:00

Did I mention we're getting a new concrete road on the street behind us? Sand and other materials are delivered in huge dump trucks which they drive along our beach. Construction restarted on this our islands' main road about three months ago. (money and political problems) It takes about a month for 40 or 50 men to complete the concrete sections for each block. This month the construction is right behind us; but, there have been delays. Some of the delays have been caused by the torrential rain we've had and others by equipment problems. This dump truck, for instance, was on its way to deliver sand; but, broke down in front of us instead. Something large dangled underneath. Golf carts squeezed past. As soon as a part arrived from the mainland, it was driven away. Now it's raining again. There are about three more blocks to go.

New Rules

2011-10-12T09:52:00.000-07:00

“Peanuts?” A little boy called to the crowd watching the soccer match. On his hip, he balanced a plastic laundry basket filled with cashew nuts. “Fresh peanuts!”

“Don’t move.” A man on the top bleacher boomed the message to the crowd while pointing into the distance - toward the ocean.

“What?” My friends looked around. Heads turned towards the field.

The referee gave a man from our team a yellow card.

“Don’t move.” More people shouted at the same time. A combination: order and plea. All the players in the field lay down. Blue uniforms mixed with green. Face down.

“Are they protesting the yellow card?” I asked. “What is this? Is it some kind of time out? Just when I start to understand a game, they change the rules on me. Are these international rules or something?”

“Don’t move.” The order came from the loud speakers.

The drummer stopped. A mother next to me covered her child with her body. The gaggle of boys behind us stopped making crude remarks about the girls sitting in front of them. The soccer players made a checkerboard on the field.

“Killer bees. Sit down and try not to move.” My friends were trying to disappear into the wooden benches.

“Killer bees?” The words didn’t register. What did bees have to do with soccer? I hugged my knees to my chin and wondered what I was doing.

Losing count of the cigarette butts on the ground under the bleachers, I raised my head. Peeked out. No bees. People huddled over children. Most had their knees drawn up as we did, as if preparing to somersault. No one moved. The men who had been standing near the fence were now lying down on top of discarded beer cups, orange peels and plastic wrappers. They were trying to hide between the blades of grass. No one was moving. From punta rock music to silence in seconds

“I don’t see any bees.” I twisted my head.

“Goddamnit. I told you. Don’t move. They swarm over anything moving.” My friend was angry. “Trust me. They’re there. You’ll probably hear them before you see them..”

And then I saw them. The entire field was covered. The entire soccer field was filled with bees. Bees were spread out - buzzing over the entire field and flying toward us. I was too surprised to be afraid. I watched them through what appeared to be a screen – a slightly pink screen. I felt like I was watching television. The bright sunlight went behind a pink fog.

There was a low drone.

“You'll never forget that sound.” My friend mumbled. The air around me got heavy. I felt that something awful was about to happen in the movie I was watching. The hair on my arms rose and swayed. I could hear an orchestra playing scary music. If touched, I would have jumped a mile.

The boys in the top row used swear words that were new to me.

Then the referee blew his whistle. The soccer players stood and did warm up exercises – stretching cramped muscles. A mother knocked a dirty orange from her young child’s hand. People everywhere were just as they had been before.

“Killer bees. Really?” I stared after them. The bees had moved over us toward the parking lot. A cloud of bees swayed on waves of air. They didn’t turn back. They just swept forward or floated with invisible wind currents.

“The game clock will be reset for five minutes. Delay of game.” The referee blew his whistle.

“That’s all?” I asked. “That was longer than five minutes.”

A guy in blue kicked the ball. The men up front dusted off grass and dirt from their T-shirts and shorts. People yelled advice to the players. Children ran in circles.

“Peanuts.” The boy carrying the laundry basket called out.

The rainy season

2011-10-06T15:11:00.000-07:00

In October, when it rains on Ambergris Caye life changes – for the good and the bad. The rain cools down the ocean and it redirects the traffic.

Cooling down the ocean is a good thing because warm water encourages hurricanes and we don't want them. We've gotten horrible hurricanes in October before (i.e.Mitch) so no one relaxes despite the rain. But, redirecting traffic is another matter.

The same water that fills up 1000 gallon vats in less than an hour creates new "pot" holes as big as small trucks. Driving from one end of town to the other becomes an obstacle course and a mental challenge – do I go straight through that brown puddle or dodge along the edge? If my golf cart starts to sink, should I jump? I'll definitely need that new water to wash my muddy clothes.

Of course, that same rain turns drooping hibiscus lush while providing just the right environment for mosquitos to flourish. And then the sun comes out.

The RT Honorable George Cadle Price

2011-09-27T08:41:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, Belizeans watched as the Father of the Nation was buried and his life celebrated. All Belizeans knew him personally. The stories about him are endless, wonderful, and all are something like this – also true.

Mr. Price traveled throughout the country in his signature Land Rover as part of his continuous efforts to educate people about his dream of building an independent nation – Belize - free from British Colonialism. He needed support so he went directly to their homes.

One day in the mid 60's, he arrived in Dangriga at the home of one of his hundreds of god children. While greeting every person by name, asking about past illnesses or troubles, he was interrupted by the arrival of that god son. The boy's grandmother apologized in Creole – which sounded like a song when she spoke.

"This little boy won't go to school. He wants to stay out on the caye with his grandfather."

"We're going to need fishermen, too." Mr. Price replied.

September Celebrations

2011-09-19T14:17:00.000-07:00

In Belize, most of the month of September is made up of national celebrations and public holidays.

For school children, September is particularly fun because after the first week of school, schools, banks, and many offices close for the Battle of St. George's Caye Day which takes place on Sept. 10^th in commemoration of a great battle in which we, a tiny colony of British Baymen, beat the Spanish. School children in uniforms proudly march. Important people give speeches and a few beauty contests are held.

Did I mention that September is also a great month for hurricanes and rain as well as parades and business closures? With one eye on the weather, people plan for the most important day of the September celebrations.

Our Independence Day is on the 21^st of September. This year it will be 30 years since we officially became Belize and not British Honduras. Schools close. Banks close. Businesses close. And they close not just for one day. They close one day prior to the holiday for preparations; they close for the celebrations; and they close for at least one day of recovery.

There are speeches. There is music. The streets are decorated. The winners of the beauty contests adorn fantastic floats. They are joined in parading up and down every street in Belize by people dressed in tropical feather boas dancing tirelessly and energetically to such loud music a person's heart starts to beat in rhythm. Most of the parades take part in the middle of the day and it’s a miracle most every marcher survives the heat; but, these are celebrations and fluids are provided – sometimes by nature.

It almost always rains on one of the parades but that doesn't matter. Belizeans celebrate. And besides, everything is closed.

Inside and Outside Brothers and Sisters

2011-09-06T13:58:00.001-07:00

Probably the nicest thing about Belizeans is their incredible mix of races, colors, customs and languages.

When I first arrived (during the last century) I was appalled to hear a friend describe people passing in the streets by their ethnicity. He would point with his chin and say: "Oh, he's Garifuna. She's Chinee. He's Ketchie. They're Spanish. Light skin. She's a Coolie gal. Pretty hair. He's a Gringo. He's Creole but from Cayo. Why'd he go dread?"

I thought he was the most prejudiced person I had ever met until I realized he was related to, or knew the families of, most of the people passing by. It is such a small country, adding your background just adds spice to your description. Everyone is related to everyone else which is why a fantastic system has developed to describe relationships.

If you share the same mother, you are an inside brother or sister. If you share the same father, you are an outside brother or sister. Since most people are raised by grandmothers or aunts or older sisters in combinations with uncles, grandfathers and their current wives, the combinations are amazing and entertaining.

So, it's not uncommon to hear two Belizeans talking while pointing with a chin quickly at some person passing by : "I kinda know da one. He's my cousin. He was raised by my other grandmother in Placencia but I don't know him too good. He's my Uncle Neal's outside son by that Spanish Gal from San Pedro. She went to America. Lives in LA. Thinks she's white. Clear, clear skin. Man, with those dreads, she must tell everyone, he's an outside son. You know da who. One of her dark skinned daughters married the man in the lands office in Belmopan. What's his name? I think he went to jail. The one who's grandfather used to haul traps down by Monkey River?" The other would nod and say: "I know da one. His mother is my neighbor's sister's mother- in -law – the Chinee one. Last I heard, they'd moved to Orange Walk. One of his inside brothers is big into sugarcane. I think he has two children by that big Coolie woman who does barbecue by the bus station in Dangriga. "

It’s a rare Belizean family that doesn't include discarded relatives and adopted neighbors. It's wonderful.

White Gold Floating

2011-08-29T13:58:00.001-07:00

Not long ago, one of Capt Boxter's brothers arrived to ask for money for gas and the use of the boat. Money is a regular request. Permission to use the boat involves asking me; so, I asked why?

Earlier that morning while giving his boss a ride to another caye, the brother had spotted what he believed to be some cocaine floating. He didn't stop (his boss would not approve) but he marked the spot in his memory, (no GPS on board) noted the wind and water currents, and quickly returned to get his brother's help in searching for the floating "white gold." People support entire towns on such finds.

It was a beautiful day and I thought such a hunt would be fun. I quickly emailed my two sons who love to hear about my adventures (but who are slow to respond). I changed into a bathing suit and off we went. We followed the currents, explored deserted mangrove islands – those branches are hard to climb – circled islands, searched every path we could imagine. Nothing. Not a sign of anything. Not even a floating plastic bottle. The brothers were disappointed but I had a great tan and was happy for any excuse to be on the water.

Waiting for me were two emails – one from each son – each a variation of this: " Ma, you have no idea what that is! Don't go. Are you crazy? Email me as soon as you are home."

Customs and Recycling

2011-08-24T14:42:00.000-07:00

A few years ago, I lived on the mainland of Belize in a small wooden house on stilts with a shaded porch overlooking a nice patch of hibiscus, bougainvillea, three mango trees and some beautiful ferns. Shading the entire yard was an enormous avocado tree. Very lush tropical grounds. Plants thrive in that climate as do bugs and various other creatures.

I had invited some new friends over for dinner and one of the women very nicely offered to help me clean up. As I was carrying some dishes into the kitchen, I was surprised - to say the least - as she casually scraped the leftovers from our plates over the railing to the ground below. I'm embarrassed to say that my voice raised at least an octave as I said the obvious: "What are you doing?"

I could tell that she was equally surprised by my reaction. "I'm feeding the dogs. What they don't eat, the chickens from next door will. What were you going to do with them?"

She had a point, of course; but, all I could think was: "that explains the rats."

Nightlife in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye

2011-08-18T08:50:00.000-07:00

I took a small water taxi north about three miles to a restaurant which sits alone on a narrow stretch of beach in northern Ambergris Caye. In the day, it’s a non-descript wooden building with stairs leading directly from the beach. But at night, white Christmas tree string lights wrap around the railings beckoning the traveler. It would star in any tropical dream.

My friends were waiting for me in a tiny bar off an equally small dining room – six tables with white table cloths and crystal wine glasses. There was something very F. Scott Fitzgerald in the scene. Light warm breeze. Quiet jazz. Palm trees swaying. Moon river dancing on the sea.

While we were eating, the restaurant filled with five or six other people – normal contented tourists. After dinner, we moved to a small wicker table on the veranda to drink local rum. Then magic happened as it does in San Pedro.

One of the new arrivals whispered to one of the owners who said, "absolutely" and turned off the soft background jazz. Then another suntanned woman dressed in an oversized t-shirt, shorts, and a backwards baseball cap stood with her back to the mahogany bar and began to sing - a cappella. No words. At first she became a saxophone. Then she was a clarinet - then an oboe. Two songs later she sat down to her dinner.

Speechless and in awe, I took the water taxi home. Not a bad way to spend an evening on the beach in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye.

Costa Maya Festival

2011-08-08T12:16:00.000-07:00

This weekend was the annual Costa Maya Festival in San Pedro. Since I had never been, one of the organizers decided to make me a judge – thus guaranteeing my presence for one of the nights. I was pleasantly surprised – particularly because I'm not a fan of beauty contests. We judged eight beautiful candidates from Belize, Costa Rica, Honduras, Panama, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Mexico – all Latin America. I had assumed they all would be physically fit and basically brain dead. I was correct about the fitness and wrong about their intellects. In every case they were bright, articulate and ambitious – although access to a cell phone and mascara was more of a priority in life than I thought necessary. In every case, they saw this contest as one step on their way to achieving success in fields as diverse as law, engineering and dentistry. Early in life, each had learned that in this Latin culture, no one pays attention to a woman unless she is sexually attractive. If she can get attention by her physical presence, then she can achieve what she actually wants to do with her brain. These women are playing that game very well. I think that's clever and admirable.

Slow Season is the new high

2011-07-26T08:48:00.000-07:00

It's the slow season so I'm pleased to announce that things are happening here! We have the annual Costa Maya Festival next week; we have a world famous poker player in our midst; and the Tres Pescadors Fly Fishing tournament is this weekend. But, best of all, the road in back of us is being completed.

By far, the biggest news is that Bob Bounahra, a business man of Belize City (who everyone knows because Belize is small or if they don't know him personally, they shop in one the family stores), has made the Final Table for the World Series of Poker in Las Vegas. He will compete against 8 others in November. Remember we have a population of 315,000. Most small towns everywhere in the world are bigger. The entire nation will soon become even more avid texas holdém affectionados. Stay tune for November events.

The Costa Maya Festival has been the highlight of San Pedro summers for years and thousands of people love it. If you like international beauty contests combined with live entertainment – songs and comedy – this festival is for you. Nothing starts until I'm usually asleep so I've not attended (but Caye Casa is a sponsor) Apparently, it's great fun. I think it helps if you can understand jokes in Spanish.

Don't forget the Tres Pescadors tournament for fly fishermen this weekend. I think I might try to compete in the women's casting competition.

HOWEVER, the biggest news, in this slow season, is that road construction has started AGAIN to complete the paving promised years ago. This time it looks like it's going to be completed before most of the rainy season makes it impassible and before the next election.

Come visit. It's cooler here than most of North America.

Directory Assistance in Belize

2011-07-18T13:17:00.000-07:00

We love to communicate in Belize. It's a small country with a small population. During hurricanes people are constantly calling radio stations with phone numbers for friends or seeking information about missing relatives. So, I was not at all surprised to hear a message from Mrs. Rita Smith to have her son Massive call her as soon as possible – despite the great weather we've been enjoying.

Mrs. Rita Smith is the mother of our Captain Boxter. She has four sons in Belize - two nicknamed Massive. I called Capt Boxter to give him the message. (He is constantly dropping his cell phone in the water so his number was new and Mrs. Smith didn't have it) He didn't answer because he was snorkeling with Caye Casa guests at Hol Chan Marine Reserve.

A few minutes later, however, he called. "What's my Mom's number? Someone on another boat just hailed me and said Mrs. Smith needs to get in touch with Massive; but, his cell phone has been disconnected because his mother in law used it to call her relatives in the states and ran up a huge bill."

I gave him his Mom's number. "Which number do you have for the other Massive"? I asked. "The one he gave us last time belongs to his ex-wife and they don't believe in electricity. So I doubt it will work"

"Yeah, I know; but, I think they believe in it now because she won a washing machine." Captain Boxter shouted over the sound of waves crashing on the reef. "I wonder why she wants him and not me?"

"Call her and find out. Give her Benedict's number as well." I suggested. Benedict is the fourth brother. "He lives the closest if she needs help."

When Captain Boxter returned later that day, I was anxious to find out if Mrs. Smith was okay and if she'd gotten in touch with Massive – whichever one she needed.

"Yeah, sure." He answered – acting surprised that I was worried. "She just wanted our new cell numbers."

Road Construction in San Pedro

2011-07-11T13:47:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago, contractors working for San Pedro Town began to finish the paving of our main road connecting the bridge to the "round about" near the fire station and the rest of San Pedro. The current council had promised to complete the job as part of their election platform three years ago. I had grown convinced that they weren't going to keep their promise. (Imagine that?!)

I was very relieved to see it under construction because the rainy season has begun. After even a short tropical downpour, the road in back becomes impassable (there is no drainage system). It's like mud season in Vermont except considerably warmer. All those wishing to stay in one piece and dry – avoiding pot holes, bottomless pits, and slimy sandy mud – use the beach. Every vehicle heading for the bridge charges by Caye Casa after a rain; and while it's fun to watch golf carts pulling boats or tractors pulling hay wagons full of Beliken beer, it damages our beach. Hence, the reason I was excited about the road paving.

Unfortunately, last week the paving stopped almost as abruptly as it began - about 4 blocks from the bridge and two blocks south of us. It's unclear if the town ran out of money; if the residents in this area don't have much political clout; or, if they're just taking a break – others have lasted over 2 years. We'll see. Elections are next year. Come visit. We'll pick you up and drive you here on the new road and/or on the beach – your choice.

Fly Fishermen and Belize

2011-07-05T08:16:00.000-07:00

The 3rd Annual Tres Pescadors Slam Tournament will be held here in San Pedro beginning July 28^th, 2011.

This wonderful, three day fly fishing competition is scheduled to correspond with the new moon thus insuring high tides and ample opportunity to land plenty of bonefish, permit and tarpon. The water around Ambergris Caye teems with these three fish (tres pescadors) most of the time – with or without the new moon!.

Catch and release all three in one day – it’s a grand slam.

Teams will go out daily to try their luck and then check in with their results at the palapa in the town square from 3 PM to 6PM. Also, at the same time in the afternoons, there will be daily casting competitions on the beach – open to all – men, women and children.

Here's a picture of one of our guests, our own Captain Boxter and a permit. There are schools of bonefish right out front of Caye Casa. Join us.

Batten down the thatches

2011-06-27T08:43:00.000-07:00

Hurricane Season starts here in Belize on June 1^st; but, no one really worries about a storm until the unusual day when the winds stop, the tide drops, there are no waves breaking on the Barrier Reef, and the water is the temperature of a hot bath. Then a strange calm descends on the island and combines with an intense concentration of energy – usually realized by the sound of hammers – and all radios are tuned for the latest weather forecast. No one talks of anything else.

We all make lists of things to do before the storm: closing storm shutters; nailing pieces of plywood over windows and doors; moving boats to a safe harbor; testing the generator; stocking the larder; bringing in the potted plants and the lawn furniture; and, one of my favorites, getting someone very agile to climb the coconut trees to remove the coconuts. In a storm, they become missiles.

Fortunately for us, we usually have time to get ready. I say usually because Hurricane Keith took most everyone on Ambergris Caye by surprise. It went from a tropical depression to a full fledged hurricane overnight. If residents hadn't evacuated the island by noon, they were stuck here. They looked for the highest and strongest building for shelter. There was no getting off the island. That was an exceptional storm. Usually we have a day or two to prepare.

Once the hammering sound dies down, a walk down the beach is ominous. The houses and hotels are boarded. The beaches are empty. There are no boats moored on the piers or anywhere in sight. And strangest of all, even the dogs disappear.

Today the winds are from the east, there are waves breaking on the reef, the tides are normal but the water by my pier is almost as warm as a hot tub. It's early in the season. The coconuts are still on the trees at Caye Casa (see photo). I won't really start worrying until September or until I hear a lot of hammering.

English in Belize

2011-06-20T06:43:00.000-07:00

English is the official language of Belize; but, it’s the second language for close to 98% of the people born here. So, over the years I've discovered that I don't always understand English as it's sometimes spoken.

Once when I was living in Dangriga town, one of the neighborhood children came upstairs and “hailed me” through the kitchen screen door as I was piling some freshly picked oranges into a bowl.. She said her mother wanted some “shambula”.

“What?” I said. She’s about ten years old.

“Shambula.” she said with her thumb in her mouth - her hair in riotious braids and ribbons.

“What’s shambula? What does your mother want?”

“Shambula.” thumb part way out. Mouth open. It was becoming obvious to her that I was very ignorant.

“Shambula? I don’t know what that is. I don’t think I have any.” I said shaking my head.

“Shambula,” she demanded. Her thumb all the way out to enunciate clearly.

“I’m sorry,” I smiled. “I haven’t the slightest idea what you want.

“Shambula” she said as I shut the door.

The next time I saw her, I asked "did you go to school today?" She smiled and said "oranges."

Lobsterfest 2011, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Belize. June 20th to June 25th.

2011-06-14T06:54:00.000-07:00

Lobsterfest 2011, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Belize. June 20^th to June 25^th.

In celebration of the opening of lobster season in Belize, come join us and eat lobster.

Enjoy a weeklong series of events – mostly dining options – which culminate in a San Pedro Town Block Party on Saturday June 25^th in Central Park.

During that day, there will be an art show, live music, as well as the finish of a kayak challenge – with competitors racing from Belize City to San Pedro. (approximately 30 miles of Caribbean Sea.)

In the evening of the 25th, there will be food booths everywhere with grilled lobster, sautéed lobster, lobster in ceviche, lobster pizza, lobster salads plus more live music – on stage and in the crowd – as well as awards for the best booth, drink and, of course, food.

Think lobster. Come stay at Caye Casa - we're five blocks from Central Park.